Summertime in Helsinki; Spending A Few Hours In The Downtown Area

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I do not intend to speak on behalf of Azamara Club Cruises.  As an employee of Azamara Club Cruises, I hereby state that all vies and expressions of opinion I hold are solely my own, and do not reflect or represent the views, values, beliefs, opinions, or company policies of ether Azamara Club Cruises or Royal Caribbean Cruises Ltd.
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Roughly two years ago, I was in Helsinki for the first time.  Today, I came back on the same ship, to a town largely unchanged save for the big ferris-wheel on the harbor.  The downtown area had this humble, wonderful comfort then; it had a humble, wonderful comfort today.  Much as that implies, it comes from many things: the townsfolk, those townsfolk who work in the open markets, those who serve you at a café or restaurant, or who pass you by.  All the architecture, modern and old, that blends so well.  Nature and city balance it each other out beautifully, too. And there's the weather (at least in summer).  Cool, but not pervasive.  Cloudy, but in an artful way.  Things remained seemingly unchanged, as if today and the day two years ago had somehow merged.  It was a strange but intriguing feeling, like this was supposed to happen.
From the harbor where we docked, the one great thing that catches the eye right away is the Uspenski Orthodox Church.  It is the largest of its kind in Western Europe.  The Russian Empire had ruled Finland from 1809 until 1917.  This church, in a way, serves as a kind of symbol for Russian impact on Finland.   Their history goes deep.  

I remember being enthralled by the church’s colors.  Something about the red brick gives off a majesty that is atypical of most churches I’ve seen.  Maybe it’s only because I have a thing for dark-red or reddish brown colors; I’m not sure.  The point is, once I laid my eyes on that church again, I instantly felt invigorated.  My traveler’s heart instantly radiated and I felt elated.  It was so unexpected; I have been here before, so this should not have happened with such power!  And yet it did!  This was a new day for me in Helsinki, and at that moment I almost felt like I was here for the first time.  Indeed; things remained seemingly unchanged, and it was a strange but intriguing feeling, like this was supposed to happen….

Aside from this church and the ferris-wheel, things are quite unremarkable around this dock.  But in the summer months, there is a large open market near the water, and even more markets around town.  Things become remarkable as you waltz through the market toward the promenade.

The promenade is a gorgeous area, full of lush sights.  To the right is the shopping area, sure to satisfy the needs of the shopper.  To top it all off, at the end of the promenade there is Stockmann, a gigantic department store that takes up an entire block.  Along the promenade there are several great places to sit and enjoy a meal or a drink.  Places of note include Café Esplanad, where you can get a great salmon dish (I figured it was popular because I saw plate after plate coming out of the kitchen while I waited for service).

http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaurant_Review-g189934-d788954-Reviews-Cafe_Esplanad-Helsinki_Southern_Finland.html

There’s also Ravintola Vespa, at the end of the promenade to the left, which holds a lunch buffet each day for a modest price.  Its wi-fi is good, too. 

http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaurant_Review-g189934-d809020-Reviews-Ravintola_Vespa-Helsinki_Southern_Finland.html

Many more cafes and restaurants can be found within the downtown area and amongst the stores and shops.

           

But, I highly suggest going to the open markets for a great meal.  Much of it is fresh, delicious, and well-priced for what you get. 

However, the tour did not start in the market nor the promenade.  The bus took us first to Senate Square, one of the largest city squares in Europe. 

 I had come across this open area by accident two years ago, and its size was just as striking today as it had been back then.  Much of that feeling comes from the Turomiokirkko, or Lutheran Cathedral, which dominates the square in the best of ways.  Today, it seemed to bask in the glow of all the cloud art behind its façade.  Gusts of wind occasionally whipped through the square, more crisp and brisk than bitter and cold.  Breathing it in was invigorating.  
Our guide had told us a few things about Finland already.  Roughly 75% of the country is indeed Lutheran, but only 1% constitutes the Orthodox community.  I wondered at that time if the Uspenski Church by the dock was one of the most spectacular—and possibly, one out of only a handful—of Orthodox churches in Finland.

Helsinki is by far the largest city in Finland, holding 5.3 million, roughly half of the country’s population.  Needless to say, not too many people live in the north of Finland.  Chilly conditions are bad up there during wintertime.  Helsinki is in the south, and wintertime daylight in Helsinki lasts from 8am to 3pm….  So imagine living even further north than that!

           

In recent years, the great success of Finnish education has taken the world by storm.  The country arguably boasts one of the strongest, unique, and even envious education systems in the world.  Pictured above, to the left of the Turomiokirkko, is Helsinki University, the oldest university in Finland. 

In Finland, learning is placed above testing, so teachers don’t “teach to the test” because there is no national testing system.  Each school and its local authority work together to create curricula that the school feels will fit its needs.  Local authorities determine how much autonomy a school can grant itself.  Teachers have  autonomy, too, and this of course facilitates the emphasis placed upon learning.  There is no tuition for higher education in Finland, nor for any form of education; plus there are extensive opportunities for financial aid and student loans.  Also, school meals are free.  Funding for schools is mostly public. 

At an early age, kids go through a program that combines care, education, and teaching.  Kids are placed into Basic Education from 7-16 years old. 

From there, Secondary Education is very popular, consisting of vocational training and general ed, or even a combination of the two.  Students have flexibility in choosing how and when to study.  It all takes three years to complete.  After secondary education, a student has the option of going on and pursuing higher education, though it is restricted because the applicants outnumber the spots available.  However, secondary education training in and of itself offers a wide range of occupational opportunities.       

Additionally, Finland has a great history of adult education, which emphasizes both practical and value issues, such as maintaining quality of the labor force and strengthening social ties and understanding.  Adult education is still strong today.
More on Finland’s education system can be found in this great PDF that’s very to-the-point with all the details of Finnish education: 

http://www.minedu.fi/export/sites/default/OPM/Julkaisut/2013/liitteet/Finnish_education_in_a_nuttshell.pdf


Our guide was fond of the education system in Finland, and chose to speak of it frequently as we made our way from Senate Square.  She made a habit of returning to the topic throughout the tour. 

We eventually arrived at the promenade about which I’d previously written. 

Much seems to happen around the perimeter of the promenade…and yet within it is quaint.  Inviting.  When I went back out on my own, I chose to sit at one of the benches and just watch.  Even though the streets were crowded and loud, the promenade itself was peaceful and lovely. 

           

We then walked down the street dominated by Stockmann on the left, and in the distance was another city square, called Rautatientori (“Railway Square” in English), home to the Helsinki Central Railway Station. 

This shot was taken in June 2013.

           

This was taken in June 2015 (today). 

Eliel Saarinen, of the father-and-son team, designed this beauty of a station.  They both worked extensively abroad, as well.  For example, Saarinen's son, Eero, conceived the design of the Gateway Arch in St. Louis, Missouri. 
This recent design of the train station was finished in 1919.  It is a bustling train station, serving as a main point of transportation for Finland’s trains and for movement in and out of Helsinki.

The rest of Railway Square is a great sight, boasting a few other buildings of note. 

This is Ateneum, a large art museum.  It holds the largest collection of  classical Finnish art and its construction was completed in 1887. 

The clock tower of the train station.

This striking building is the Finnish National Theatre.  The theatre itself didn’t have a permanent home until 1902, when this building was erected for the company.  For the first three decades of its existence the Finnish Theatre was a touring company.  Over the decades more performances areas and stages were added to the national theatre. 

So, we passed through the train station, and eventually we made our way through a street that leads toward a great open area, from where you can see both the Parliament building and the Music Center, called Musiikkitalo in Finnish.

This shot was taken two years ago, when the Parliament didn’t have any construction going on; like today.  Either way, it is an impressive building: 

And this is the The Helsinki Music Center.  It is a high-end, modern concert hall.  It seats approximately 1,700 and its lobby area is open to the public.  It is a busy place that holds anywhere from around 70-100 concerts during each season (September-May).  Aside from the main concert hall, the building houses five other smaller venues, including a rehearsal room and a dining venue called Klubi Restaurant.  Moreover, the center holds concerts of various genres: not just art genres like jazz and classical, but also pop and folk music, too.

 Two years ago I didn’t get the chance to go inside.  Today was different. 

 The hall is surrounded by a double-layer of glass panels.  According to the guide, no sound whatsoever penetrates through those panels and out into the lobby.  Not bad at all.  If only I could have seen a performance! 

Here is the link to the music center’s site, where you can learn more about it, especially the history of its commission and the timeline:

http://www.musiikkitalo.fi/en

Seen above is a screen in the main music hall, advertising for the Sibelius Finland Experience. This performance happens daily, and the ensemble consists of a piano duo playing Sibelius’ music alongside scenes of the Finnish landscape upon the projection screen. 

Hesperia Park is near the Music Center.  Tow years ago I had come through another, wholly different area from the east, just outside Railway Square.  Eventually I had headed into Hesperia Park, strolling along the pathways and emerging on the other end only to happen across the music center and the Parliament building later on.  Upon having entered this open area from Railway Square, a beautiful sight had greeted me:

These incredible wood carvings are laid out sparsely along the perimeter of this small dirt field.  The fountain in the center makes the scene complete; a landscaping wonder. I had continued onward from that area toward the waterway in the distance.  Helsinki is situated on a peninsula, and there are many, many natural harbors and bays that make up the geography.  Most of the bodies of water are part of the Baltic Sea.  But here in Hesperia Park, at first glance you wouldn’t think so, judging by the calm serenity.  It looks and feels more like a placid river, something that’s far inland.

I think back to stories like Huckleberry Finn and To Kill A Mockingbird when I remember these shots.  The great thing about this walk is that the surroundings get you in a serendipitous way.

Wait, what?!  There's an interesting thing to see!

And my point is there is a lot to see here!  Works of art, moss-covered rock, homes within the trees, the Baltic Sea waterway, even a theme park on the far side of the waterway!  (I don’t know why I don’t have a picture of this…must’ve accidentally deleted it or something).  These last three pictures are of a monument to the longest-running president in Finnish history, Urho Kekkonen. 

So, in essence, Hesperia Park is a must-see.  I highly recommend it, even if you only have a few hours to spare.  Granted, the homes are east of the park are most likely not part of it, nor is the open area with the wood-carvings.  Nonetheless, several roads and trails connect everything shown above.  It’s not your normal walk-in-the-park, nor is it your normal nature hike.  All of it is simply wonderful, especially within that crisp, fresh Finnish air.  You get the full nature-city experience when visiting this place.

Today, the tour rested at a café within Hesperia Park, but by then my camera’s battery had died.  I don’t have a picture of the café for that reason.  Unfortunately I cannot remember the name nor can I find it online. 

Their coffee is solid and flavorful, and the atmospheres both inside and outside are homely and lovely.  The tour settled within and without for a nice break. 

I asked the guide a bit more about Finnish life.  One of my main questions was about how the Finnish function in the wintertime.  Naturally generous and matter-of-fact, she stated that life goes on in the wintertime in Helsinki!  All the cafes are still open; school remains open; the people act normally, even through the dark days when the sun is out from roughly 8am-3pm.  Snow is never too bad, at least in Helsinki.  Because the Gulf Stream races through the atmosphere in this part of the world, temperatures are never too extreme during winter.  If there is a big storm, the city and local authorities get to work.  Workers begin shoveling and snow-plowing at 4am and onwards to make sure that transportation and other basic functions within the city can start once people start going to work, school, etc.  This was all very interesting and inspiring to me.  For one, in being from sunny Southern California I have no knowledge of dealing with snow.  For two, I had somehow unconsciously equated little sunlight during the winter with other harsh winter conditions, such as heavy snowfall and extreme sub-zero temperatures.  I’m also accustomed to hearing about the East Coast of the USA, where winter conditions have been terribly strong in recent years.  For three, perhaps my recent re-reading of the last few books from A Song of Ice and Fire also influenced my perception; “Winter is Coming” echoed subconsciously in my head.  (Speaking of which: yes, the TV series Game of Thrones and the books upon which it is based have departed from each other immensely in terms of the plotline.  It’s all too much to remember, let alone how many differences there are now between the books and the show!  But that’s another topic for another day). 

One aspect of the Socialist government became apparent when the conversation shifted toward government influence.  Our guide spoke a little about overall government investment in its peoples’ lives.  A skeptic may very well latch onto this example; the fact that the price of a police-issued ticket is determined upon the violator’s income.  The driver’s license or ID can be swiped, and a lot of personal information is brought up on the law enforcement’s database, including annual income.  So, given that the rich are heavily taxed, one can also infer that the rich can be heavily fined, too; a speeding ticket could cost the wealthiest of people $25,000 USD!  Conversely, a struggling student or mother could face double-digit fines.  This system is outrageous to some, but to the guide, and much of the Finnish population, this kind of law enforcement belies the concept of the rich giving back a “fair share” to the people, so that everyone benefits.  In other words, there is a functionality of  “Trickle-Down” economics in Finland.  Some may disagree and say that the rich should be taxed lower, like in the States, but in Finland it is not so. 

We departed from the park, walking first past the Olympic Stadium (of which I could not get a picture through the trees lining the street).  Helsinki hosted the 1952 Summer Olympic Games.  We then went through a couple of quieter streets toward the renowned Temppeliaukio Church.  Along the way the guide talked a little more about education, speaking about free school meals, adult education, and secondary education and vocational training. 

She then started talking a bit about the military.  All males are required to serve in the military for two years.  For females, it is optional.  Honestly, I found this mandatory service surprising, but probably because I coupled it with the fact that in recent Finnish history, the country has not been occupied, neither in WWI nor WWII.  That’s not to say Finland was without its tragedies, however. 

Sweden and Finland had been one since the 14^th century.   After splitting apart in 1809, Finland’s Parliament recognized Russia’s Tsar Alexander as their ruler.  This lasted until 1917, when Finland declared independence.

There have been Russian invasions of Finland-Sweden before, and recently, WWII is infamous in Finland for what is called the Winter War (1939-1940) and the Continuation War (1941-1944).  As the guide spoke of the wars, she stated her own father was involved in them.  It was awful, as all war is…but interestingly enough, since the peace treaty in 1947, Russia and Finland have been on more-or-less good terms.  Recent events arguably have caused tensions to rise between the two countries, but at this point there is a great deal of speculation, so nothing is certain. 

More info on the history of Finland and Helsinki can be found in these respective links:
http://www.localhistories.org/finland.html
http://www.hel.fi/www/Helsinki/en/administration/information/history

We finally arrived at the Temppeliaukio Church, to which the guide simply referred to as “Rock Church.”  Hewn right out of the rock, but in a careful way so as to leave the rock as unmolested as possible, the church is one of the main attractions in Helsinki and is applauded around the world for its ambitious architectural undertaking.  Three different contests took place to see who would take the reins for building the proposed church.  The contest committee shot down the first in the 1930’s; the second was delayed by the Winter War; and so the third happened a good thirty years after the first contest, in 1961.  Two brothers won the contest, and their efforts can be seen especially in the interior.
The outside is surrounded by the rock, and on the top of the outcropping lays the dome of the church.  The entrance is not much to look at, but once inside, it is truly something incredible and one-of-a-kind.  What especially caught my eye was not just all that rock, but the huge, copper-lined interior of the dome.  It was powerful and majestic all at once. 

My camera had died an hour back in Hesperia Park, and I had only remembered recently that I took my phone with me!  Fortunately for that I could capture this place, though of course the quality of the pictures is lacking compared to my pro camera.    

The atmosphere of the place reminded me of what I already saw in town; there were a lot of people, but it was comfortable, modest, peaceful.  And overall, beautiful.

You can find a succinct summary of the history of the church and detailed descriptions here: http://www.helsinginkirkot.fi/en/churches/rock-church-temppeliaukio

Finally, though the Sibelius Monument is near the Rock Church, I didn’t have time to see it.  Sibelius is, after all, a national hero of sorts, and it would be great for someone like me to witness it at some point.  In the near future, I’ll post something about the Sibelius Monument once the ship comes back to Helsinki.  It is a landmark that I must visit.

The end of the tour gave me a feeling of contentment.  It was a bewildered sort of contentment.  I hadn’t slept well the night before, but nevertheless my energy grew steadily throughout the tour’s duration.  I don’t know; maybe it was Helsinki itself.  Perhaps it was the old and new architecture co-mingling so well, so charmingly, throughout the city.  Perhaps it was the people, all of whom gave off this generous, honest, positive vibe that permeated throughout the city.  Maybe it was the beautiful balance of nature laid out amongst the buildings of the downtown area.  Maybe it was that first sight of the Uspenski Orthodox Church, hidden from the ship’s point of view but still standing mighty against the skyline.  Or, most likely, it was just that cold air I was breathing, keeping me awake.  At least I could be conscious enough to take it all in, whatever the case may be.  Yes, it was a good day.